At-Home Facials: Four Major Mistakes to Avoid in 2024
While having someone else care for your skin in a spa is delightful, sometimes indulging in at-home self-care for your skin makes more sense. Not only is it often more budget-friendly, but it also grants you the liberty to do as you please – watch your favorite shows, listen to podcasts or music, or cook a meal – while your skincare products work their wonders. Additionally, it's an excellent opportunity to think beyond your regular skincare routine and incorporate products you don't typically use. However, like any skincare practice, there are certain essential guidelines to follow when giving yourself a facial at home. One misstep and you could potentially cause more harm than good. So, be cautious of the following four significant DIY, at-home facial mistakes – you'll be glad you did.
Mistake #1: Utilizing Professional-Grade Chemical Peels
It might be enticing to search for a professional-grade chemical peel to apply on your own, but doing so is a recipe for disaster. Unless you're a certified professional, you likely have no idea how to use these potent products.
"I have been astonished to witness the strength of chemical peels readily accessible to the public online," states Dr. Caren Campbell, a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco, California. "When using these products, you expose yourself to the risk of prolonged redness, irregular pigmentation, [burning, itching], and even scarring,"
Dr. Marie Hayag, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, concurs. She remarks, "A dermatologist is well-versed in determining which type of acid is safe for the condition a person presents with based on their skin type. The aftercare is also crucial when using a chemical peel, and proper instructions are necessary."
Dr. Hayag advises avoiding these professional-grade skincare products and instead using peels and masks specifically formulated for home use – they're typically gentler, yet can still assist in enhancing skin texture and tone. For an exfoliating face mask with a punch that's approved for home use, try Herbivore Botanicals Prism 20% AHA + 5% BHA Exfoliating Glow Facial Mask ($58) or Savor Beauty Pumpkin Enzyme Peel / Lactic Acid Resurfacing Treatment ($80). Both contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) to delicately dissolve dead skin cells to combat dullness and reveal a brighter complexion beneath.
Related: 4 Things That Should Occur During Your Facial – and 4 That Shouldn't
Mistake #2: Combining Excessive Active Ingredients
Apart from the pampering aspect, a part of the pleasure of getting a facial lies in the layering of products and treatments that work in harmony with each other. Professionals are acutely aware of which ingredients can collaborate, and which ones should never be combined. The general guideline is to only use one active product during any facial; otherwise, you risk potential sensitivity, inflammation, and even burns or scarring. (This is even more likely to occur if you have dry or sensitive skin to begin with.)
Here's a useful step-by-step guide for a facial at home. Start by using a gentle cleanser and toner, with mild formulas containing non-active ingredients. (You can even double cleanse if you truly desire this to feel like a professional facial.) Then, apply an AHA – such as glycolic or lactic acid – or another chemical exfoliant as your primary treatment. (This category of ingredients offers good value for money as they address multiple skin concerns, providing brightening, anti-aging, and complexion-clearing benefits.) You can subsequently follow up with non-active hydrators, soothing serums, moisturizers, sheet masks, and oils. Again, keep these mild; look for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, and shea butter, all of which are less likely to cause irritation. And don't forget to give yourself a small facial massage as you apply your final product, an effortless step that will make your experience feel even more spa-like. (If you wish to enhance the experience further, you can use a gua sha tool or jade roller or attempt a DIY facial lymphatic drainage massage.)
For reference, here's a quick list of active ingredients you shouldn't combine at home:
• retinol and AHAs • retinol and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) • retinol and benzoyl peroxide • retinol and vitamin C • retinol and salicylic acid • salicylic acid and BHAs • salicylic acid and AHAs • vitamin C and BHA • vitamin C and AHAs • vitamin C and niacinamide
Mistake #3: Trying to Perform Extractions Yourself
Extractions are a skill reserved for in-office settings and professional facials carried out by trained estheticians only. Acting recklessly on your delicate facial skin can not only worsen the problem but could also lead to scarring and infection.
"Squeezing a pimple or picking at your skin can primarily lead to the spread of bacteria and, ultimately, more pimples. Acne extractions in a medical setting are referred to as acne surgery for a reason," says Dr. Hayag. "While only the superficial layers of the skin are exposed during acne surgery, that's sufficient to cause a localized infection. The skin needs to be properly cleaned and the area being treated should be disinfected before any skin-breaking action."
Your initial line of defense against a blemish – whether it's a whitehead, cystic bump, blackhead, or any other type – is to ignore it. If the pimple is clearly about to erupt, you can place a clean, warm, wet washcloth over it. If you absolutely must "pop" a pimple, use an alcohol-sanitized extraction tool, thoroughly clean your hands beforehand, and clean the area afterward. To assist in bringing pimples to a head, try a spot treatment like Starface Hydro-Stars Hydrocolloid Pimple Patches ($22). A clay mask – such as Kiehl's Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Mask ($20) – can also help remove impurities, soak up excess oil, and halt pimples in their tracks, and is an especially good choice if you have oily skin, acne-prone skin, or frequently experience breakouts.
Related: 8 At-Home Devices That Truly Make a Difference in Your Skin and Hair, According to Doctors
Mistake #4: Employing Microdermabrasion or Microneedling Kits
Both at-home and professional-level microdermabrasion and microneedling kits are available to the public, but most dermatologists agree that using such products at home is unwise. This is mainly because they require a highly sanitized environment – similar to what you'd find in a professional setting.
"Microneedling devices increase your risk of infection as you can introduce bacteria, viral, or fungal organisms to your skin," explains Dr. Campbell. This is because the device repeatedly creates micro-wounds in the skin with tiny needles. Unfortunately, these wounds can act as small channels for bacteria to enter the skin if your device isn't properly cleaned before use.
Microdermabrasion operates differently – by vacuuming off the top layer of dead skin cells – and presents fewer complications compared to microneedling, but it can still expose you to the risks of redness, inflammation, abrasions, infection, and scarring, says Dr. Hayag.
"The at-home options are significantly less potent, which can result in a less-thorough exfoliation. Patients who have received professional microdermabrasion treatments before trying the at-home kits may expect the same results, causing them to overdo their treatment, which can potentially lead to an increased likelihood of infection and scarring," says Dr. Hayag. "Also, patients who have never received a microdermabrasion treatment from a medical professional are more likely to perform a treatment that isn't suitable for their skin condition." For a microneedling alternative, try Peace Out Wrinkles ($28), which are single-use microneedling patches ($28). For a gentle physical exfoliating scrub, try Wander Beauty BRB Multipolish ($36).
